And so J.W. Anderson’s rampant feminisation of traditional men’s clothing continues apace. We’ve all seen the photos in the Mail and had a bit of a giggle, but it’s time to sit down and take a serious look. Leapfrogging Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, who are content to just add some girly touches to their somewhat severe aesthetic, Anderson has pushed the boundaries even further than previous collections.
Whilst the more extreme experiments with gender may have garnered most of the copy, there are actually some pieces which won’t scare the horses. Polite wide trousers with enlarged pockets on the outside for instance, worn with a figure-hugging top featuring a pectoral-enhancing dart at the front, or the contrast-trimmed overcoats. Sorbet shades, aqua, and cobalt blue disrupt the calm neutrality of the palette.
As “an examination of bourgeois kinkiness and boudoir perversity” this collection succeeds by repeating a few simple ideas. But once again, repetition is a symptom of obsession, the most perverse form of desire there is. Whether this is a comment on the desirability of designer clothing, or the human form in general, is anyone’s guess.
Review written by Lee Clatworthy (@TeamChutzpah) for Katie Chutzpah blog. Catwalk photography by Rory van Millingen