He can do no wrong in my book. Since Riccardo Tisci took over the helm at Givenchy, the house's radical change in direction to multo chic, slick, modernist urban has made me salivate at every single collection. These are the clothes I want to wear: the sarouel cut of trousers with dropped crotch and skinny shape (sounds ugly but is strikingly forward, flattering and elongates legs), the severe slashes and architectured structure of capes and dresses, the lace reworked to powerful instead of pretty, the prints (oh, the prints!) and the elongated structured lines...these are just some of the reasons why Tisci's role has rocketed the house forward to contemporary hip.
The Givenchy Resort Collection 2013 (above and below) is just so advanced, so spot-on, so sharp and achingly on-the-money beautiful that it towers above many others competing in this lucrative arena. Most sales are made in resort lines which also indicate the success of certain items (or not) in terms of sales and press appeal, often allowing the designer to gather information and cultivate the line for the following season. Tisci's caught our attention with this bohemian Bauhaus look for Resort '13 with the colour blocking of black and white (a house staple) combined with red and gold, the block print, the slit sleeves that give the illusion of a cape, the paisley, the simple pairing of sarouel trousers with strict shirts and jackets - mega simple, mega effective.
Fashion people are confronted with an enormous glut of information and looks and seasons at once (working 6-12 months in advance at all times) so you can often forgive the sometimes outlandish garb or the obsession with 'new' or the "what season are we in again?" attitude. For example, at the moment, we are faced with receiving information on current sale mark-downs (S/S'12), A/W'12 (high street) which hits down in late July/August, Menswear catwalks shows (S/S'13), the ' we don't know what to call this so it's either resort or pre-collection or cruise line' (the latter term we all truly despise, by the way) and, of course, we're gearing up for Couture - often an indicator of the house's next direction for the ready-to-wear. Phew!
I say this as currently I've received (and raved over) Givenchy's Resort '13 while simultaneously being forwarded the striking split page, mixing it up, ultra contemporary ad campaign for A/W'12 photographed by the ubiquitous Mert & Marcus, featuring amongst others Joan Smalls and Stella Tennant with the styling input of Carine Roitfeld. The creative directional input of Tisci is clear, ever the modernist who takes his graphic attention to detail and translates this into a deadly directional feel for the Winter campaign, even cutting up the iconic logo.
This is a man who takes well measured risks and combines with awesome vision. Judge for yourself why Tisci's genius is revolutionising Givenchy and applaud loudly.