Hot on the success of Marni's H&M collection, the brand now focuses on those who can afford to get in early in their orders for the 'real' range. The Marni A/W'12/13 collection is being sold on Marni.com from 14th-25th May with delivery of the items expected to pop through the door in September. Fortune favours the early brave.
With it's 1960s tinged girlishness yet strictly architectured lines, Marni encompassed a graphic vision for A/W'12/13 - pure lines and decisive volumes, especially with coats, capes and their trimmings and details.
Consuelo Castiglioni merged colour block framed Pop Art with a constructivist feel. The silhouette is neat and precise, to-the-knee, with a dropped waist. Exact capes create a firm halo around the body. Decoration turns into construction, playing with the weight of surfaces: rounded fur collars land on top of leather coats, or are worn in place of neck pieces; panels of mink and felted wool recreate the strictness of a man’s coat.
An air of grace and rigour runs through: the neck is always covered; brocade tops worn with matching pants are both sumptuous and severe; stole jackets secured to the waist restrict and protect. Prints are used as an accent: a single outsized flower, papiro jacquards and brocades; fur is hand cut in intarsia to recreate tweed and piano stripes.
Evening shapes are sculptural, rounded on the hips, highlighted by dense embroideries with a mechanical edge. Gold metal circles with applications and flowery rhinestone brooches run decoratively along the neckline; jewelry becomes an integral element of the garment.
Fabrics have a compact hand: silk wool double-face, lurex jacquard, wool crepe. Exaggerated, oversized patent leather and snakeskin add weight and presence.
If Marni's your thing, this is a stand-out season to buy.