Looking back on London Fashion Week you can feel at times, with yet another impending apocalypse on the horizon, which the majority of our designers just aren’t trying. However, if December 21st is the end of the world as we know it, Bruno Basso and Christopher Brooke are feeling fine; nee, gleeful with anticipation.
As the show notes attest, the duo have “decided to go out on a bang”, not a whimper , and Basso & Brooke are seized this opportunity to expand on their oeuvre, collaborating with the so-very-now Cambridge Satchel Company, as well as showing knitwear for the first time. You have to wonder why the designers hadn’t got around to transferring their dazzling designs to jumpers before now; the synergy is there in abundance. Reader, I would quite happily snap up all of these snazzy knits once they hit the racks.
Of course, as with all Basso & Brooke collections, it’s really all about the prints. Just as the rest of the world catches up with Bruno Basso he cleverly moves the goalposts yet again, creating a riotous Matisse-inspired maelstrom of geometrics, houndstooth check, stripes and animal hides. These colourful motifs seem to blur and mesh into each other, like M.C. Escher on Mephedrone, creating abstract plays on perspective.
If all this sounds a little too, too much, Basso has thankfully engineered these patterns to compliment Brooke’s simple shifts, pleated A-line skirts, oversized masculine jackets, and loose bat-winged dresses. There is a Sloaney Eighties easiness to these shapes which belies the invention of construction, the use of rich jacquard silks and rubber-backed jersey.
In a season full of safe bets Basso & Brooke really pulled it out of the bag – sorry, satchel. This collection is a confident start to a new phase in the designers’ work, one which will hopefully ride out December’s End of Days.
Review written by Lee Clatworthy (@TeamChutzpah) for Katie Chutzpah Blog.