Roksanda Ilincic is always going to rock my boat. Her constant assured collections of sleek glamorous modernist evening wear is a joy to behold and with a audience of the bigwigs in town and at the show including Vogue's Anna Wintour (a firm follower at every show), Suzy Menkes and Hamish Bowles, this has the international support required for a major star designer. The only surprise is that Ilincic's name is not more famous on the global circuit and seen more frequently on the red carpets of Cannes, Venice and The Oscars. But that may be down to Ilincic's favour with the more refined in taste and of the less spangly demeanour.
For Spring/Summer '12, Ilincic sent a bevvy of lean angular shapes down the runway that were each stunning in turn with a twist - clashing brights (fuchsia, ochre, aquamarine, white and orange) worn with beanie hats did not detract from their sportswear couture chic but added a younger feel to the mood - there was laid-back humour and girlishness as peplums (a big trend for S/S '12) were exaggerated and beautiful sleeve detailing meant inspired tulip-shaped puffs began at the elbows and flared to wrists. Cocktail versions came in the tightly cinched skirts that flared to mid-calf and slouchiness came via the large rope tie-waisted pants that somehow, just seemed 'right'.
If any criticism were to be levied, it was that there were inklings of Raf Simons at Jil Sander about this one but this is a moot point as Roksanda's cutting edge craftmanship and skill means she knows her market and what works for this type of woman and her need for opera coats, tailored loose fit shorts, maxi skirts and cocktail dresses with oomph.
Even large geometric prints didn't seem out of turn as there were plentiful simple languid pieces and cocktail shapes to please Ilinicic's denizens.
Block heeled shoes were the colourful full-stop in this collection, clashing against the main fray of the outfit. This was an another thought-through collection for Roksanda and with her new foray into cocktail transformed daywear pieces who knows what we'll see next season.
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