After introducing his first collection for Theory last September, designer Olivier Theyskens, one time Creative Director of Rochas before it was discontinued by its owners, Proctor & Gamble, (you can boo at this point), signed a deal to become Artistic Director for Theory. Great news for Theory. Stupendous news for Theyskens' hard core followers.
And artistic, Theykskens is, in more ways than one. Back in his Rochas days, his commitment to good design meant that he refused to play ball by introducing more lucrative lines like accessories. At the time, Theyskens famously said that he wanted to 'stop global vulgarity' and for that alone, I applaude him.
It appears that Theory CEO, Andrew Rosen, wasn't intimidated by these former actions and saw Theyskens' huge potential for cutting edge commerciality. Rosen has made Theyskens a very happy boy as the new range, now available at Harvey Nichols, is a vision of strict lines, gloriously cut for the modern minimalist while still being feminine and sharp. Very wearable.
Theyskens' new collection for the label is created using fabrics from Italy, with sharp, imaginative tailoring. Some pieces incorporate prints based on Theyskens' own art works and include a wide array of denim, from high-waisted flares to cornflower blue cropped jeans, specially treated to look permanently distressed and love-worn.
Oh, and by the way, he's also designing menswear and that bete noir of his, accessories. Something's changed. Perhaps, he's just happier in the good ol' U.S of A and with a CEO who allows him freedom?
Olivier Theyskens' Theory collection is available at Harvey Nichols.
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