Sunday, 30 May 2010

Marni and Vivienne Westood collaborate with Jeans Brands

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Jeans collaborations ahoy! It appears designer jean collaborations are back on now we're all in dire economic circumstances. What better way to co-brand and offer designer product at entry level price point than to combine gigantic names in both designer and jeans brand fields?

We've just had the mywardrobe.com pop up denim bar at 38 Carnaby Street, London and now we have two mega designer collaborations with jeans brands to look forward to.

Vivienne Westwood is collaborating with the iconic Lee Jeans brand debuting in stores for Autumn/Winter 2010/11. The line will initially be distributed through Vivienne Westwood stores as well as through a selected number of retailers world-wide.

The Vivienne Westwood Anglomania and Lee collection comprises of 4 styles of jeans for men and 5 styles for women. The capsule collection will be complemented by denim shirts and printed tee-shirts, no doubt all of which will be covetable collectors items.

The line takes as it's main inspiration the Vivienne Westwood archive with references to Dame Viv's seminal punk and pirate collections of the 1970's and 80's but also to the dynamic cuts she has since developed throughout her career. These designs have been reinterpreted using Lee's extensive know how in the field of jeans. The result is a fresh look at denim seen through the eyes of one of fashion's most original designers.

Styles for women include a super skinny jean as well as a slim fit, a baggy 'boyfriend jean' and micro shorts. For men, styles include the rock'n'roll skinny fit, 'bondage' jeans and low crutch oversized jeans as well as a more classic easy fit. Black and dark indigo denims in stretch and non stretch are contrasted with more distressed and vintage washes. This is complemented by a range of bright over-dyed denim in electric blue, red, emerald green, camel and white. There is also metallic printed gold and copper denim as well as a 'trompe l'oeil' lace all-over print taken from one of Westwood's couture gowns.

Mr. Carlo D'Amario, Managing Director of Vivienne Westwood says: "It is very important for us to work with a denim brand like Lee with such a strong heritage. When you marry this with the creativity of Vivienne Westwood, you are able to create a truly original product which offers great value for money."

Over at Marni (I can hear the audible gasp already!), Consuelo Castiglioni and her design team have teamed up with cult American jeans brand Current/Elliott and see this brand extension as a 'natural fit'. Says Castiglioni, “The great thing is that I was given free reign, which meant I could treat denim like any other fabric…The biggest challenge, however, was to design models that reflected the Marni style and bring my vision to the project.”

Devoted to the fashion conscious set with a difference, Marni and Current/Elliott deliver an authentic and whimsical mix of denim separates rather than a designer uniform. The fusion of Marni’s distinctive youthful spirit is coupled with Current/Elliott’s heritage approach to denim and results in a balance of ingenuity and expertise.

The Marni Current/Elliott collection is comprised of 5 womens' styles and 2 mens’ styles. The womens’styles are available in 4 different washings while the men's styles are available in 2 different washings.

The collaboration will be available in stores from June 2010 as well as online and at Harrods and Dover Street Market.

Please feel free to leave a comment below or a post in the shout mix box on the right hand side.

AIU London's end of year show - 2010

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On Thursday afternoon last week pre the hyped screening of SATC2, I attended the celebrity Graduate Fashion Show for American InterContinental University London (AIU).

AIU London is recognized internationally for the quality of the courses, its industry involvement and support and because many of the students go onto careers with known designers such as Matthew Williamson, Hugo Boss and Vivienne Westwood. Unfortunately, 'celebrity' was loosely termed in connection to the show in this instance as examples paraded before us included 3rd rate model, erstwhile TV presenter (about WAGS, quelle surprise) and ex footballer's wife, Lizzy Cundy (no jokes about the surname, pulease!) and Roger Taylor's glamorous other half, Gisella Bernales.

You may actually know of the American InterContinental University due to its connection with Sky 1's 'Project Runway' as it produced the winner so it's not short on talent if short on celebrity attendees to its year end show.

The pre show drinks, catwalk show and after party were more professionally organised and produced than many I have attended at London Fashion Week and actually started on time. All this, and an opening set from disco diva Kym Mazelle. Many could learn from this student body. Not only that, expecting the worst, (sorry, but you usually do at most student shows) I was delighted as there were some examples of genuine talent in the group of final years students.

While some experimented with colour and cut, many went down the strictly commercial route which is no bad thing. There were at least three student designers who showed originality, distinction and flair to match the current hoard of LFW designers: Priya Arore, Jenny Liu and Agnieszka Baradziej stood out.


Any criticism has to be aimed at the end of year show collections booklet which was far too try hard arty for words. Simple pictures of each of the students' collections would help identify the ones to watch and represent their talent more accurately than fancy graphics and mood boards of design inspiration ever could.

What do you think? Please add a comment below or start a conversation on the shout mix box on the right. It's easy!

Saturday, 29 May 2010

Sex and the City 2 - Fighting Back at the Backlash



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That's it! Take umbrage sisters! Enough already with the negativity, snobbery and the slating of 'les girls' and the Sex and the City 2 movie. What did you expect? Proust? I'm looking particularly at YOU, Andrew O'Hagan of The Evening Standard and your hyperbole of bile review which was less review and definitely sounding more misogyny and dare I say it, ageist misogyny at that. (http://www.thisislondon.co.uk/film/review-23839220-sex-and-the-city-2-is-ugly-on-the-inside.do).

It's not a well kept secret that the franchise lost it's controversial and incisive edge a while back. It was already showing signs of that by the time we got to season 6 in the TV series and the last movie certainly didn't leave us thinking, "Hell, that was so cutting edge and right on, it was like Andrea Dworkin meets Shere Hite with Vogue's Anna Wintour thrown in." But the vitriol and the hatred that the SATC2 movie has drummed up by way of film critics and experts says a lot more about the state of feminism and just how women are viewed in 2010 than the movie ever could.

The reviews often descend into 'stupid women' name-calling and 'how could they?' to the anger of 'they've let us down by changing' but basically, at heart, the wrath is down to the fact that this is utter dross for stupid, fluffy women. As well as covert anti feminist mysogyny, the reviews highlight just how far removed the critics are from the audience and their understanding of them.

On Thursday night, as part of the favoured group of the first to see, I took my seat in the plebby 2nd showing at the theatre in Leicester Square, alongside thousands of limp corsaged excited competition winners, bottom of the heap reviewers and industry office workers. Glamorous it was not but the place was oestrogen fuelled and with a electric air of excitement that I haven't seen since I was a kid and 'Stars Wars'. As the opening credits rolled and the music started, the place erupted into whoops, screams and applause. The girls were back and oh how they are worshipped! While the cynical rolled their eyes and hid their embarrassement at the audience's reaction, I for one was delighted. This was a movie for ordinary women with a sense of humour and fun, who like to be transported to a super glamorous world and see that these very women have the same insecurities and foibles as they do. SATC devotees aren't stupid vacant androids with no sense of context. They know that it's pretty much like OD'ing on too many cupcakes but they love it just the same. Possibly with the same devotion of men who support minor division football clubs like Accrington Stanley, Grimsby Town or Stenhousemuir FC. So it's with genuine outrage that I'm fighting back on behalf of the ordinary women.

Yes, we know that along with the glamorous setting of SATC2 and the still prevalent brilliant one-liners of Michael Patrick King that this is sheer fantasy, that the women have changed to become the very women they themselves slated in TV series 1 & 2 but don't we all change with age? While still being ourselves, don't we want other things with advancing years (and I'm not talking the shift from Chanel to Celine handbags)? Is ageing such a terrible crime? It is according to Mr O'Hagen as you obviously shouldn't want sex, fantasy or escapism without thinking through the proper morality of the narrative - yeah, just like men do with the James Bond franchise and you don't see people pointing the finger of continuing sexism, immorality and irresponsibility in this day and age at HIM. But back to the storyline:-

Yes, Samantha is still sex obsessed but it's more a statement of her still having 'it' while going through the hated menopause. Charlotte is still Miss Preppy Prim and is battling feelings of inadequacy with her role as Perfect Housewife. Miranda doesn't (as oft reported) give up her job to be with her family...it's because some arse of a new boss is making her life hell and is intent on subjective bullying. (I hear you sister having been there myself). Miranda realises that she can't put up with this any longer and wants to re find herself and her fun and elects to be with her family for a while. Hey ho. The relief is palpable. By the movie's end, you see Miranda in a more comfortable lawyer's role where she's getting back to her roots. And Carrie, the girl who has everything, doesn't know how to 'be' in her marriage of two years. She's torn between wanting the excitement and sparkle of her single life and the comfort and security of Big. YES, we know these girls are a niche percentage of women, all have domestic help, lives of great advantage and financial security but their feelings are no different from Tracey from Essex or Helen from Edinburgh. Take away the ridiculous setting of impossible wealth in Abu Dhabi and the cultural ignorance, the private jet, the Upper East side apartments and the positions of power and women still relate to them.

Plus it's one uberfest of designer fashion, brilliant styling, cutting camp one liners, brand names and Liza with a Zee who steals the movie. In essence, pure toffee coated escapism with sprinkles.

Women can be intelligent and fickle at the same time. It often takes great effort.

Friday, 28 May 2010

Chutzpah's Weekly Barometer

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A light hearted look back over the past week’s good, bad and indifferent including the “don’t even go there’s”.

LOVING

SJP's London Premiere outfit She wowed in McQueen. Often bitterly described as 'horsey' SJP looked like a gorgeous, sleek little funereal pony, all black feather plumes and tulle.

Fashion industry sample sales We may be spending far too much and end up on skid row but boy will we look good!

'Corrie' quote of the Week "I'm Polish not stupid".


Tom Ford's Musk Pure Like the difficult girl at school, this one, I've warmed to and now can't stop wearing it.


HATING

SATC2 movie bashing FFS, it was never billed as deeply philosophical. Yes, it's like eating too many Quality Street and you're almost sick halfway through, but that's the point! It's not Ken Loach or Mike Leigh. Get a grip.

Amanda Holden Tries too hard.

DON’T CARE

iPad SchmiPad

Thursday, 27 May 2010

Chutzpah's Diamond Star Product of the Week



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I promised you some of my favourite niche products in this section and this truly is one of them. I re-discovered it only last week as it was hidden towards the back of some of newbies that had nudged themselves forward vying for attention in my bathroom cabinet. How could I forget this gem? Shame on me.

I stumbled upon E Coudray's Ambre & Vanille foaming mousse years ago in Fenwicks Bond Street in one of my aimless meandering afternoons long ago. I miss the fragrance like I miss the aimless free and easy meanderings. The smell of toffee sweet vanilla with an amber glow hits you when you screw open the heavy gold lid of this jar of indulgence. Opening the jar is like stepping back in time to another more golden, more fragrant halcyon age. And it should. Doctor/chemist Edmond Coudray was appointed to the household of Louis XVIII and supplied the crowned heads of England, Italy, Austria, Portugal, Africa, Brazil and Russia.

The fragrances used by E Coudray today are reformulations but don't let that put you off as these are as authentic to the time as over the top powdered wigs and chalk white face powder.

Ambre et Vanille is classed as an Oriental in fragrance speak which means it evokes a heady sense of sweet oriental depth - sweet orange, bergamot, Lebanese Cinnamon, Heliotrope and the heady smoothness of vanilla combine with the richness of patchouli.

The soft gelatinous pearlescent mousse is whipped to light perfection and a small scoop goes a long way transporting your bath or shower into an experience worthy of the Court of Versailles. The mousse is a moisturiser, cleanser and fragrance all in one.

Ambre et Vanille (Foaming Mousse) is a sweet fragrance that gifts easily so bear this in mind for an unusual and thoughtful gift.

E Coudray Foaming Mousse costs £26 and is available from Fortnum & Mason. www.coudray-parfumeur.com

Tuesday, 25 May 2010

He's back! Gok's Fashion Fix

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I should know by now what to expect from Gok and his Fashion Fix; Mr Nice Guy to the masses, Mr accessory overload and Mr transformer style parkas worn as skirts etc but you cannot help but like him, dammit.

The missive "Hold onto you hats, bags, skirts and knickers cause I’m back," could sound quite threatening if you didn't know if was Gok. It’s really quite eerie how he sounds EXACTLY like Jeff Banks, fashion guru and presenter of the 1980’s 'Clothes Show'. Only while Jeff would have interviewed and preached, Gok wades right in there pinning, tucking and throwing out 'girlfriends' like you wouldn't believe while Brix clutches on to her "You can’t win" American drawl, designer stance.

Gok in a bandstand type red jacket with gold braiding hit West Bromwich, "a town that fashion’s forgotten," he quipped, And still they forgave him. You know it’s just pure the-a-tre (in the Elaine Paige pronunciation of the word) but his fashion followers heap pure unadulterated adulation upon him.

Gok has the common touch and that’s a good thing. He makes people feel at ease and as if they know him which is genius, actually. I’m convinced Brix doesn’t win as she doesn’t have ‘it’. Well, that and the fact that just running around like you've had too many e numbers going 'OMIGOD' this is FABULOUS and EXPENSIVE!’ does not a convincing stylist make. Playing up to cutesy niceness with pugs and od'ing on pink won't convince the great British public. Oh no! They can spot an outsider as soon as look at one.

Meanwhile back at the ranch, Gok throws accessories at his victims like they're ten a penny. And where would our boy be without a haberdashery, eh? I was convinced until I watched it that he rolled his models in double sided tape and then catapulted them into John Lewis's dressmaking section but hey ho, I stand corrected. It takes quick fire chat, pinking shears, stitching and bitching to make models look that good in high street clobber. Work it girlfriend! *finger snap* I have to admit it, his transformation of his models for the high street really is quite phenomenal if not wearable.

Over on 'normal' street, Gok got hold of Mandy, a lovely Indian lady. “This person has no idea at all what she should look like..." He transformed her from ripped jeans and hooded tops to dresses and humongous over sized accessories. At one point, Mandy looked like a scared air hostess with her neckerchief, teetering on her heels but she was convinced she was Gokked. She also fidgeted in her first work dress outfit and though she said she liked it, she pulled at the hem and neckline and baby, that doesn’t spell comfortable to me.

Back in the designer dept (ie Selfridges) for Brix's part of the challenge, "Global Traveller" had Brix jumping around grappling with printed Dries van Noten as if she had been hallucinating. Oy vay! The screaming, the ditsy attitude, the downright pinkness of her act is...enough already! The over girly woman sterotype isn’t endearing Brix to her Gok audience. If Gok manages to make high street pieces step up and look designer then why has no-one queried how Brix can do that to those covetable designer brands?

Gok, on the other hand, threaded together clashing fabrics and prints with a head wrap from Next and Bob was your Aunt. Adding a couple of belts, a gold sequin jacket, humongous high street earrings and a clutch bag and bingo – Walsall Primark meets Southall by way of Ralph Lauren’s interpretation of African goddess.

For the American sportswear challenge, Gok piled on the layers while Brix simply piled on the colours and the pounds...I mean prices. The High Street versus Designer Fashion Face Off was a no brainer. Even as Brix pulled out her piece de resistance –a re-worked jewelled sieve, it was easy to see that Gok had stolen the hearts of the West Brom people. Let that be a lesson. Sequins and big earrings always win out! Gok is onto a winner.

So what do you think of Gok? Please leave a comment below or a message in the Shout Mix box on the right.

Gok Wan's Fashion Fix is on Channel 4 on Tuesdays at 9pm. Picture courtesy of Channel 4

Isn't there something different about you? Selfridges launch Nipple Enhancers

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In a recent previous life, I used to work for a large sexy lingerie (and other stuff) retailer.

The goods often provided hours of amusement and one of those was the 'nipple enhancer' when they arrived on our desks. Beejezzus! Grown women want to actually look as if they've just bent over a freezer in Tesco for an extended period or are in a constant state of arousal? We'd all find that hard in Tesco to be honest.

Anyway, it appears that grown fashionable women do as Selfridges, the purveyor of all things fashionable, are now selling Bodyperks Nipple Enhancers (£9.95) at www.selfridges.com.

Personally I'd laugh at them not with them if any of my cronies seriously thought about purchasing these desperado products. However, David Walker-Smith their Director of Beauty says, "From skincare products to salon treatments women are always looking for quick fix, non surgical solutions for enhancing what they already have. Selfridges is proud to lead the way for women by offering the very latest body boosting creations from all over the world."

What next? Nipple clamps?

What do you think? Leave a comment below or start a conversation in the 'shout mix' box on the side.

Bodyperks are available online at www.selfrides.com. Selfridges stockist no: 0800 123 400

Sunday, 23 May 2010

Are you a Monster or a Robot?

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Recently, I was invited to along to the Joystick Junkies' latest fashion shoot for their new collection.

To explain, this event like others they have which include picnics, parties and meet-ups are more akin to the owners, workers and friends of the business meeting up and having fun rather than the straight business of fashion...which is kind of a good way to be in these mean, economic boomed and bust times.

If you don't know of them already and you should, Joystick Junkies is trendy little t-shirt and accessories business, that's a funky and fun filled fashion testament to the video games and digital culture that rocks JJ's world. Aimed primarily at the 18-35 age grouping, this little ball of energy business is inspired by the influence, energy and styles of the 1970's and the bold colours and attitude of the 80's.

This season, the presiding question is 'Are you a Monster or a Robot?', based on the clumpy but cute pixel space invaders. I chose the latter (although anyone seeing me bleary eyed with wild hair and stumbling at 6.00am in the morning may quibble with my choice).

I now have a rather cute Robot accessory for my designer bag to prove I'm till 'down the kidz'. Which leads me to the fact that the Junkies have teamed up with accessories company Exspect and have launched a range of mobile and gaming accessories including headphones, iPhone and iPad covers, all with the Joystick Junkies distinctive gaming influence at their core. With Pac Man's 30th Anniversary currently being celebrated on Google, the Junkies know a good thing when they see it.

The company has the official license to produce designs for Atari...right up the strasse of boys obsessed with consoles, iconic video gaming and pop culture. One of my favourites, though, is the pirate fright skull and the 'We can be Heroes' t-shirt for A/W '10.

Joystick Junkies products are sold in River Island, Bank and Pulp to name a few. For further information and pricing and to view the latest collection, please visit http://www.joystickjunkies.com/

Saturday, 22 May 2010

Pucker Up. It's Red Lipstick Day at Harrods

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My mother calls red lipstick her red badge of courage. Before giving birth to each of her five children, glamorous and steadfast to the last she insisted on smearing 'her red badge of courage' on her lips so she could be suitably attired. The love of bright red lipstick is something I've inherited. If left on a desert island, my glam weapon of choice would be a smear of Chanel No 22 or YSL red in any form with its chic, classic gold square case. The intoxicating smell, the indulgence and oh my, how it transforms your mood and look.

In the same vein, Harrods, bastion of all things beauty, aims to promote red lipstick as a great confidence booster. As the grand finale to Harrods Beauty Month in May 2010, for the second year running the store is teaming up with the cancer support charity, 'Look Good…Feel Better' to offer a day of exclusive activity centred around the ‘iconic’ red lip. The 'Look Good…Feel Better' charity helps women manage the visible side effects of cancer treatments so a smear of red is is defiantly the red badge of courage.

Bringing together some of the best make-up artist talent from around the world, Harrods Red Lipstick Day will not only help raise money for this very worthy cause but also show how to perfect this season’s hottest lip trend, turning Miss Nora Normal from pale wallflower to Hollywood starlet.

Should you plump for the gorgeous Guerlain Rouge G lipstick with slick silver casing and it's hidden mirror (£27.50) or the YSL specially engraved Rouge Pur No.19 which is a Fuchsia Pink engraved with the Yves Saint Laurent signature logo and exclusive for Red Lipstick Day - only 100 available (£21). Also, to celebrate Elizabeth Arden’s 100th Anniversary a limited edition commemorative lipstick in Red Door Red will be available on counter, with all proceeds going to Look Good…Feel Better. These are undoubtably all collectors items. Or, just opt for the classic 'stay scarlet' red Estee Lauder in blue and gold casing, Lancome's Absolu Rouge (£18.50) which comes in pillar box red (No.132) or a new favourite, Dolce & Gabbana's Chromed which is a silky pinky red (£20).

Personal consultations will be available from top international and catwalk make-up artists including: Mary Greenwell for Chanel, Daniel Sandler for All For Eve, Jamie Coombes for Dior, Armand Beasley for Sisley, Pat McGrath’s protégé Emma Kotch for Dolce & Gabbana, Claire Rae for Lancome and Blair Patterson for Estee Lauder, to name a few.

So whether you want to learn how to apply a defined ‘red lip’ for a screen siren pout a la Scarlett Johansson or a rosebud stain like Liv Tyler, book an appointment and come armed with questions for the experts. Bookings will be made in advance and charged at £25 for a half hour booking and £50 for a full hour. All booking fees will be donated to Look Good…Feel Better.

In addition, Harrods have created a 'Kiss & Make Up Wall'. All customers will be invited to participate and, for a donation of £2, you’ll receive a mini ‘lip-over’ plus an invitation to imprint your kiss on a Harrods ‘Kiss Card’ with a message of our choice. Not only will this feature on The giant ‘Kiss & Make-up Wall’ located in the Harrods main beauty hall, it will also enter the customer into a prize draw to win a fabulous beauty hamper of spa treatments and products. Celebrity 'kissers' will start off the fun.

Harrods Red Lipstick Day is held on 27th May.

Thursday, 20 May 2010

Chutzpah's Weekly Barometer


A light hearted look back over the past week’s good, bad and indifferent including the “don’t even go there’s”.

LOVING

Champagne high teas at Fortnum & Mason Impossibly stylish

Lancome's Hypnose Precious Cells mascara Black as night cream mascara that helps strengthen and grow lashes as you wear it.

Meadham Kirchhoff's range at Top Shop Just glam and new wave hippy enough for the high street.

The Vampire Diaries on ITV2. I'm hooked. It gets better and better.

HATING

Car alarms Why have them if the car is parked miles away from your home? JUST TO ANNOY ME WHEN THEY GO OFF CONSTANTLY! That's why.

Olympic mascots, Wenlock and Mandeville Quelle disappointment. Two freaky lumps of steel with one eyed vision. Actually, now you mention it, they do sound v like Cleggeron.

Junior Apprentice Shouldn't you be moping in your bedroom or listening to Gaga or something?


DON’T CARE

Cannes and who's doing what Blah blah. Stop showing off with your costly parties and yachts. Now that Cheryl, Sarah Harding and Liam Gallagher are there, it's hardly what you'd call classy, just rich and OTT.

Wednesday, 19 May 2010

Norman Parkinson - Defining the Look


Last week I attended the Chris Beetles gallery (Ryder Street, London SW1) to view over fifty world famous images from possibly the most iconic fashion photographer ever, Norman Parkinson.

Since a young age, Parkinson's prints and their endless glamour have haunted me and probably influenced my passion for vintage 1950's style, glamour and elegance. Either incredibly colourful or potently powerful in their black and white guise, Parkinson's fashion and portrait photography captures another age, stylised to the nth degree. Joined at the hip with Vogue magazine (from 1945-1960) who helped make his career, Parkinson famously quipped, "A photographer without a magazine behind him is like a farmer without fields". We should be eternally grateful to Vogue.


Norman Parkinson's wit, style and innovative methods ensured him a place at the forefront of international photography – as influential and as imitated as Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, Cecil Beaton, and the other great figures of his era.

He is celebrated as one of the first fashion photographers to take models outside the studio, and in turn remove the stuffiness that had become associated with the genre. Freed of such traditional constraints, his images sparkle with a delightful, playful glamour, as his models live out the jet-set dream. From the streets of New York and the plains of Africa, to the tropical beaches of the Caribbean, Parkinson’s exotic shoots embodied an irresistible lifestyle that appealed to advertisers, editors and public alike, and which was far removed from the drab realities of post-war Britain.

Parkinson was married to celebrated fashion model Wenda Parkinson who features in many of Parkinson's photographs, truly depicting Parkinson's version of glamour. Add to that, Parkinson's own striking look and frame, he became a walking six-foot-five caricature of a dandyish Englishman with an office-class moustache and a furled umbrella or Kashmiri wedding hat. A photography version of Dali, if you will.

Many models were exulted to fame by Parkinson including Celia Hammond (who he discovered for Queen magazine), Jan Ward, Adele Collins, Davina Taylor, Carmen dell'Orefice, Enid Boulting and the first 'supermodel' and wife of fellow photographer Irving Penn, Lisa Fonssagrives.


The Chris Beetles Gallery is in Ryder Street, SW1. The selling exhibition of over 50 Parkinson prints, mostly vintage, is now open (19th May-12th June 2010). The show has been curated in conjunction with both the Norman Parkinson Archive and the archive of Angela Williams, Parkinson’s assistant during the early 1960s. Visit www.chrisbeetles.com for further information and pricing. Images featured include:-

C29312 AFTER VAN DONGEN, 1959
C29320 YOUNG VELVETS, YOUNG PRICES, HAT FASHIONS, NEW YORK, 1949
C29327 SPEEDBOAT AT DUBROVNIK, CROATIA, 1937

All images “COPYRIGHT NORMAN PARKINSON ARCHIVE”

Tuesday, 18 May 2010

Estee Lauder gets Social at Selfridges.


It seems that beauty brands are more on the case than fashion labels and their PRs concerning social media and its impact.

Still retaining its pole position at the forefront of all things new, Estee Lauder is holding an event in Selfridges from 20th – 22nd May called "Your Beauty, Your Style, Your Profile" where customers can get the perfect look for their social media pages. (Btw, I'm undercover and a pseudonym so don't go looking for pics of the Chutzpah!).

Estee Lauder beauty advisors will create a makeup look for each social media client and a professional photographer will then take your photo and provide you with a copy so you can upload it to your social network profile, mobile phone or iPhone.

You can have a look that's right for any website where you want to post your photo whether you're looking for a new job or networking to build your career on LinkedIn, or just plain want to update your image. So if you're looking to catch up with old friends on Facebook or MySpace and show them just how fantabulous you have become, Estee Lauder are on hand to whisk you into shape. Or, even if you're looking for love on match.com, you can wow them with your wonderfulness. (Personally, I always find the latter desperateness a bit creepy, but hey ho, each to their own). Even if you don't participate in Social Networking, it just might be good indulgent fun.

There's now no excuses for rubbish profile pics, girls and boys, unless you're under cover like the Chutzpah.

This little social hub will take place exclusively at the Estée Lauder counter in Selfridges, Oxford Street from 20th May – 22nd May 2010. There is a booking fee of £15.00 for this which is redeemable.

Monday, 17 May 2010

Vetyverio - New from Diptyque

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When I read the press release and it said that Vetyverio, the new fragrance created by Oliver Pescheaux from Diptyque was devised from the same angle as the distinctive Tam Dao, I was interested. Unfortunately though, its fresh, sharp and with a green plant, Sicilian lemon edge tinged with ylang ylang and rose absolute, it didn't quite match with Tam Dao's sultry strength.

Vetyverio perfume is damp and dry, cool and warm, and defiantly Dyptique in originality. The razor sharp leaves and dirty roots of Vetiver (or Kus Kus as it's called in the Middle East), smells as alien to an English Summer as blasting dry heat in June. Some hope.

Described as being 'neither masculine or feminine', Vetyverio can be placed in the Eddie Izzard of fragrances like any Summer hybrid that's sharp, witty and alluding to freshness and heat. It is also strikingly vivacious and could roundly slap you in the face if you didn't take it seriously. Vetyverio packs a punch but one that you can quickly recover from rather than a 'count to ten' knockout. There's only the faintest tinge of headiness.

The Italian mandarin orange, Florida grapefruit and Sicilian lemon and bergamot in the fragrance are fresh and fruity rather than citric and tend to burst forth eagerly. Possibly too much...like a well scrubbed Italian kitchen.

Vetyverio allows you to glimpse an other worldliness of fragrance. Like a holiday in the Far East when you're wearing white and lounging in a boutique shack or strolling the inclines of Portofino, it has imagination and possibilities. I'm just not sure if that's where I'd like to holiday this season.

Vetyverio is available from May 2010, in a 1.7 fl.oz natural spray for the suggested retail price of £45 and in a 3.4 fl.oz natural spray for the suggested retail price of £65. Vetyverio is available from branches of Diptyque and Space NK

Saturday, 15 May 2010

Hennes' launches Festival Collection for Fashion Against AIDS

Not only are high street favourites H&M brilliant at teaming up with the best global designers and having limited edition collections that fly off the shelves as soon as they launch, they are also philanthropic with deserving causes. On the 20th May, H&M launches its third Fashion Against AIDS campaign which includes a hip, themed festival collection, 25% of the sales of which are donated to youth HIV/AIDS awareness projects.

The collection for both guys and girls will encompass the whole festival experience, from clothes and accessories through to tents and sleeping bags, all the while raising funds to promote the message of safe sex.


“For me, festivals are unique and inspirational places as they join both music and fashion. To see your favourite bands, to see creative people gathered... It is very important to make people aware of the problem with AIDS and HIV and we want to contribute in the fight against the disease by donating some of the sales from this collection,” says Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M’s head of design.

For girls the collection features a mix of rock with Bohemia and glamour with added ethnic touches. Denim hotpants or patterned leggings are matched with embellished tunic tops, while maxi-dresses are toughened up when worn with leather jackets. Gladiator shoes, chunky bracelets, wide belts and beaded necklaces complete the look, while tribal print headphones give an extra twist. Whereas, for guys, it’s all about looking like you’re in the band, with slim blazers and jackets,faded and patched denim jeans and cropped shorts, embellished waistcoats, paisley vests and the essential rocker’s hat are all part of the picture. There are also tents,sleeping bags, as well as fold-up chairs..in short, all your festival fashion needs.

“Fashion Against AIDS with H&M is a great way to reach millions of young people. Fashion Against AIDS has opened many doors for Designers Against AIDS and we’re very grateful for this. It’s so important to keep informing young people worldwide about the importance of safe sex,” says Ninette Murk, founder of Designers Against AIDS.

The Festival Collection launches in selected main H&M branches throughout the UK from 20th May 2010. For more information on the non-profit organisation Designers Against AIDS, visit www.designersagainstaids.com

I'll just visit 'The Powder Room' takes on a whole new meaning.

Brilliant news! Soho has a new pink playground for girls seeking quick makeovers, vintage styling and a respite for a hard day's shopping. Welcome to The Powder Room at 34 Marshall Street, Soho, W1 (Tel. 0844 879 4928), a haven of pretty pink indulgence for girls who like to be girls, right slap bang in the middle of media world, near the offices of the National Magazine Company in Broadwick Street. Suddenly, "I'll just nip to The Powder Room," takes on a whole new meaning.

Situated at the quieter end of Soho in the Newburgh quarter, just beyond the craziness of Carnaby Street and a stone's throw away from the ever crowded MAC store, you'd be a fool not to seek out this little oasis of calm and be transplanted back to days of pin curls, seamed stockings, bright red lips and full on glamour.

The Powderpuff Girls have been expertly primping and preening London and the rest of the UK (especially at exclusive fashion press open days)for over 5 years. Originally based in Shoreditch, the girls have expanded to the West End and thank heavens for that as there's so few salons who know how to crimp and curl in a true vintage style. There's only one other that springs to mind in this area that has proven excellent in the past - 'It's Something Hell's' (Tel. 07896 153491), on Kingly Court's top floor, presided over by the delightfully French Miss Betty, undisputed queen in colour changes and Hollywood hair styles.

While being manicured at The Powder Room, I found the girls friendly, chatty and eager to put the customer at ease...nothing seems too much trouble. I was offered cup cakes and a beautiful vintage floral tea cup and saucer filled with an even more tempting rum cocktail mix. Right on the money for a relaxing half hour.

The beautifully elegant, Katie Reynolds, founder of The PowderPuff Girls and The Powder Room says, "After the success of our Columbia Road Boutique, I wanted to extend our 1950's glamour and charm to the ladies of the West End. In the hub of central London, spending time on yourself should not be a chore, but should be a delight, a time to relax and unwind in indulgent surroundings."

And they are. Simple black and white check flooring provides the background to the bright pink highlights of the girls sexy outfits and pill box hats. A vintage 1950's bar is used for the payment area while boudoir style dressing tables are used to display the feminine Paul and Joe range of products. Rows of mirrors are lit with light bulbs so you are the star and the little stairway leads to a downstairs open area that's a larger powderpuff playground - perfect for hen nights, groups of girls on a night out and tete-a-tetes a plenty. The Powder Room also provides an excellent service where you can change your outfit, leave your belongings which will be couriered back the next day.

The Powder Room can also be hired for larger private parties and is a great choice for a birthday celebration or hen do.

The Powderpuff Pop Up store opens for 6 months from 13th May 2010 and stocks products from Paul & Joe, Mavala and blouse&skirt. Prices for treatments start at £15 with group bookings from £65 a person.

Thursday, 13 May 2010

Chutzpah's Weekly Barometer


A light hearted look back over the past week’s good, bad and indifferent including the “don’t even go there’s”.

LOVING

The Lib Dem backlash What did you really expect, Cleggy?

H&M's Fashion Against AIDS collection Really quite fabulous. Kaftans, sequins, fringe t shirts and shorts. All available from selected H&M stores from 20th May.

St Barnabas House, 1 Greek Street, W1 Laid back, warren like and lots of space. Fast becoming a Chutzpah Soho favourite.

HATING

Power over principles A week's a long time in politics as they say.

Heather Mills' atrocious outfit choices The grey playsuit she wore to the StreetDance movie premiere was so wrong on many levels.

Only 4 women in cabinet positions The old boy network returns. Kitchen sinks at the ready, girls.

CBeebies ads Noisy little imps aren't they? Puts you off looking after children.

DON’T CARE

The Olympics possible budget cuts That should give 'London Tonight' another 5000 hours of TV coverage. We have another 2 years of this. Noooo!

Tuesday, 11 May 2010

High Street Dreams – BBC1; 9pm; Monday, 10th May

I sat down to enjoy this programme. Branding, marketing, the high street. Yes! I was so looking forward to another fly on the wall, from rags to riches offering from the BBC who are really getting rather good at these high street, life through a lens programmes. Only this time, it wasn't. Within ten minutes, I'd lost the will to live and to focus and even started contemplating strong and resilient coalitions. A good programme should have you riveted. But with 'High Street Dreams' I found time to write down my reactions to it, play with twitter and update my blog. GYAC, I can't do that during 'Desperate Housewives' or 'Flash Forward'.

Even scent goddess Jo Malone and the lovely leonine Nick Leslau couldn't keep me enthralled. They either cajoled or barked at the favoured businesses in the case of the former while Leslau had a more encouraging softly, softly catchee 'middle class monkeys making kitchen table burgers' routine. It was all distinctly meh.

My first quibble is that it strove to tell the audience the obvious. Consumers like nice branding, packaging that works, strong colours and have a short attention span so the product has to bite and relay the key brand messages in seconds. Leading swiftly on to no brainer number 2. It was no biggy to see that both parties (the lovely Mr Singh and his family and the ex City types, Worcestershire young farmers, Roland and Miranda) would have to step up to the mark quickly and change their attitude towards production and distribution. Despite this, it took a full 36 minutes of programme time to constantly reiterate what could have been covered in 5 minutes. During this time, I tended to concentrate wholly on Jo Malone's thin upper lip. Is that evil or was it just boredom?

Number 3 quibble comes courtesy of likability. We cared about Mr Singh and his eager family to make their product work and change their lives...less so about Roland and Miranda who even took a break to get married so they looked even more like they'd escaped a Hackett commercial, to make them more sellable as a commodity. 'Gosh, I'd never have believed we'd be the focus of a photo shoot for our burgers'. Really, Miranda? Your self marketing and story is all you had. It's rather difficult to make a burger stand out while every high street supermarket has them on offer. Aah, but these are special goat's cheese and sun dried tomato flavoured burgers and we're pitching to Waitrose. That'll make all the difference then. And, possibly, that's why you need a stereotypical, young 'go getting' farmer couple emblazoned on the product packaging of 'Muddy Boots' burgers. Flaunting their youth to temp consumers. Perfick.

Despite constant cajoling, Roland and Miranda were finding it hard to yank their burgers away from kitchen table production. "If we take the production away from our us, what have we got," moaned Miranda. Clue: the marketing, photo-shoot, Waitrose targeted audience etc etc. Ye olde poshe supermarket tends to know their onions and their beef burgers.

Mr Singh and his family were willing to place it all on the line for their chilli sauce, even following Mr Singh's slight stroke and hospitalisation. The branding company placed with this family were more on the case than the burger munchers. They homed in on the red turban, used bright colours and hit upon the idea that the hot sauce Mr Singh was selling could be used for a whole variety of purposes. Still, they only got to pitch to Asda. Which was a shame as it was a product much more in keeping and targeted to a supermarket such as Sainsburys.

Pre pitch and encouraging their respective teams, Mr Leslau came over as a genuinely nice guy. A big cuddly mentor. Jo came across as a business woman. She’d slap you on the back of the knees if you failed her in your presentation.

Of course, following each of the pitches to their respective supermarkets, they were accepted as sellable products, starting small but hoping to grow. No surprises then from a programme that was largely monotonous and seemed to go round and round in circles.

Whats more, next week, we get to see two more teams pitch business ideas. We don't get any follow up on Mr Singh and Roland & Miranda. Now that would have been a good idea. A business and product pitch from beginning to end to estimate it's success? Disappointed and badly thought out, BBC1. Any fool marketeer knows you have to keep the customer coming back to build loyalty and brand.

Picture above: Jo Malone courtesy of twofourbroadcast.com

Monday, 10 May 2010

iPad covers for chic geeks.

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It seems that media types and boys are going all agog over the iPad.

It seems that genius Apple has once again designed a product that looks great and feels good in the hand with the familiar user interface, borrowed from the iPhone and iPod touch, translated simply to a bigger screen version. Personally, although I love a gadget, I'd need to be more convinced before I ditch my laptop and netbook.

I've heard several excuses re why some people had to buy an iPad as they would be good for meetings, they got them cheap on a New York trip and the downright, 'I just want one, right!'. Despite my reservations that they look just like a Dom Jolly big phone and are a bit impractical to lug around, some forward thinking, innovative designer brands have obviously been thinking along these lines.

The clever bods at Louis Vuitton and Bill Amberg are already on the case...literally. Louis Vuitton has its distinctive logo and a statement piece. Available in two canvas lines: Monogram and Damier Graphite, it will also be available in exotic leather at the Louis Vuitton New Bond Street Maison. Bill Amberg's plain red leather cover is decidedly chic and understated which is typical of such a luxurious brand.

Both brands beautiful iPad holders should keep gadget crazy, designer clad types happy. And if all else fails, you could always just slip an A4 pad in there with a pen.

The Louis Vuitton iPad cover launches on 15th May.

Sunday, 9 May 2010

New! Armani launches Acqua di Gioia


When Armani launches a fragrance it's big news. BIG news. That's because Armani fragrances regularly feature in the world's top ten fragrances in terms of sales and that means plenty dollah, baby. Armani is the number two fragrance brand in the UK behind Chanel. You only have to look to 'Diamonds' to see the phenomenal success it's been for Armani and we all know that's fronted by bootylicious Beyonce.

It's in this light that Giorgio Armani has chosen to release Acqua di Gioia (pronounced Joya) and provide the legions of Armani fans with a fresh, light, Summer themed fragrance that's got hit written all over it. Add a global advertising campaign fronted by stunning, 19 year old Emily di Donato and hey presto - another entry into the global top ten of fragrances. I don't say that lightly but because I think Mr Armani is on a winnng streak with this one.

Acqua di Gioia isn't necessarily my cup of tea (with lemon) but it has a universal freshness with popular appeal that's right for holidays or to add freshness to city living. For want of a better description, there's a wide appeal, common touch here that will infer it with superstar status for years to come...the Madonna of fragrances if you will. That doesn't mean to say that everyone will like it. They will recognise it, though, and that, my friends, is the sign of a classic.



Fresh, light, sultry and rainforest soaked, the fragrance bursts onto skin like being sprayed with perfumed rainwater in a chic city hotel bar..which it kinda was at the recent launch in the sumptuous penthouse apartment of The Soho Hotel. You can imagine big plush, splushy raindrops soaking you in this scent on a hot day. Men seem to love it as it smells feminine and intriguing. Mr Armani and his trusty team of top class parfumiers (Loc Dong, Anne Flipo and Dominique Ropion) hit the 'tick' box again as it's cross gender appeal shines through.

Fresh Mohito top notes burst with joy and are teamed with crushed mint leaves, limona primo fiore and aquatic green accord. The air if of the seductive power of the sea and of flowing water. In fact, Mr Armani was inspired by the geography of his homes in Pantalleria and Antigua and wanted to develop a fresh, joyful fragrance that evoked freedom and the natural elements - where land meets sea.

Heart notes cut through the wetness with spicy pink pepper, jasmine sambac, and peony while the base notes have cedar wood heart, labdanum (for a hint of incense) and brown sugar accord.

Acqua di Gioia can be best described as a very 'wet' fragrance. It feels, smells and bursts with jets of watery freshness while soaking the wearer in Armani's trademark sophistication. For first time devotees of Armani, this isn't a bad way to start. May it bring you joy.

Acqua di Gioia is available in selected department stores from July 2010.
RRP: 30ml £33, 50ml £43.50, 100ml £60.00

Art and about - A normal Noho night out.


Around a week an a half ago, when we were still in the vestiges of an awakening Summer and we were all still pre-hung parliament, the gallery queen and myself trotted off to various events in the Noho area, all in the one evening.

It made a change from sauntering around the wealthy Mayfair galleries we're used to but, inevitably, we encountered many of the same art folk, somewhat out of sorts as not in the usual environs of Albemarle or Cork Street or St James.

We took in the opening of the new Regina Gallery in Eastcastle Street with its Russian based art and, though I appreciated the works of Semyon Faibisovich, the ultra reality of everyday Russian life in Les Miserables didn't float my boat. It was all a trite real and heavy. Not works I'd like to bear upon me in a small London flat.

At Alison Jacques Gallery, I discovered a new favourite: Haluk Akakce. Trained at the Royal College of Art, Akakce artfully manages to combine his Turkish heritage with modern, urban Westen living. You can see in his work the influences of his culture and the vivacity of New York. There's a strong vivid fashion element to these works which grab your attention in their lightness and detail. Like clever Klimtian art nouveaux collages with sass. Akakce's new digital film and six new paintings called 'Coming Home' explore the psychological and philosophical meanings of time and how movement and transformation through time can be aesthetically expressed. Despite this, the new Dr Who and his time exploration tardis were not in evidence.

What was in evidence was a stunning digital work called 'The Dervish' (2010) which was an intricate, monochrome, ribbon-like structure which was projected onto a wall and became hypnotically dynamic, drawing in the viewer with its changing shapes and forms.

The paintings captured me and I'd gladly offer one a home. Bright and light as well as detailed in their execution, the paintings should be rigid but seem to flow - Akakce's former life as an architect is clear in his understanding of structure. The paintings are crafted intuitively and freehand by the artist by delicately scoring a sheet of film placed on the board to create a stencil. The process of making these works is reminiscent of the Surrealists. Akakce's involvement with new interpretations of shape, colour and form and clear to see. And, though this may sound artfully pretentious, the paintings are a delight. Dynamic not doleful.

Feeling upbeat, the gallery queen and myself hopped off to a fun evening courtesy of ideageneration.co.uk. "The Limits of Control" DVD release directed by the enigmatic Jim Jarmusch was being celebrated. A cine projected film was played onto one wall while all around us, bright young things normally at home in Shoreditch drank Espresso martinis from coffee cups. Caffeine, alcohol and kookiness. Lots of fun.

All art images taken are of Haluk Akakce's works, 'Coming Home' at Alison Jacques Gallery, 16-18 Berners Street, Ldonon W1. www.alisonjacquesgallery.com